Traxda 705060 3 Front/1 Rear Lift Kit Review
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2.75-Inch Front / ane-Inch Rear Lift Kit (04-08 2WD/4WD F-150)
Particular T526062
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Video Review & Installation
Hey, guys, it's Sara with americantrucks.com. And, today, we have a review and install of the two.75-inch forepart and i-inch rear lift kit, fitting your two-wheel drive and 4-wheel drive '04 to '08 F-150s. This is perfect for the F-150 owner who wants a upkeep-friendly way to give their truck a more level appearance and make some more room for wheels and tires. This kit provides lift in the forepart end of your truck to brand some more room for wheels and tires and evens out that manufacturing plant rake. I did desire to notation that these spacers measure out in at 2 inches for the rear and an inch and a quarter for the front. At present, the balance of the lift in the front is made up for by the modify in suspension geometry accomplished by installing this spacer. Stock tire sizes may vary. On our truck, stock is a 31-inch tire, which is what you will see in this video. And, with this kit installed, the manufacturer notes you can fit upwards to a 33-inch tire comfortably. Now, for reference, nosotros did put a 35 on, but nosotros did see a meaning amount of rubbing, and then it's rubber to say a 33 is the largest tire you lot can fit with this kit. This spacer kit features a steel construction with a blackness pulverisation coat cease and includes all necessary mounting hardware for install.So, as far every bit toll goes, this kit comes in at effectually $350, making information technology a budget-friendly way to give your truck a more level appearance and make some more room for wheels and tires. And, as far every bit the install goes, I'm giving this one a three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. It does feature a straight bolt-up install with no modification required and can be done within two hours. So, with that said, let's check out that install.For this install, we used an touch on gun, merely a regular hand ratchet will work just fine. You'll also demand xxx, 24, 22, 21, 18, 15, and 13-millimeter sockets, a swivel extension, flathead screwdriver, as well as a pop clip removal tool, 18, fourteen, and 15-millimeter wrenches, a rubber mallet as well every bit a hammer. You may want a caliper hanger or similar tool, a vacuum pump, and a pry bar. All correct. So, the showtime step in our uninstall, with your truck in the air and the bicycle removed, we're going to grab a 21-millimeter socket and remove the nut holding on the outer necktie rod to the knuckle.And once the nut is removed, remove it from your knuckle. Now, this is hung up. You can tap on the side of the knuckle with a hammer in guild to release that brawl joint. Adjacent up, you're going to remove the caliper off the knuckle. Grab an 18-millimeter socket and remove the ii caliper bolts. And once those bolts are removed, yous tin remove the caliper. You lot can jerk it off, but if it's non wanting to come off hands, you lot can utilize a pry bar or large flathead. And once your caliper is off, grab a caliper hanger or a similar tool, even a bungee cord, and hang it off to the side. Brand sure in that location'due south no tension on the restriction line. And, now, you lot tin remove the rotor. I placed a lug nut on one of the studs while we were taking the caliper off but for safety so it didn't come loose.And now that it is off, we can remove it. And if for some reason yours is hung up, you lot tin can hit right back here with a safe mallet to release it. Side by side up, we're going to disconnect these 2 lines that go to the knuckle. We're going to start with this sensor hither. Just go ahead and follow that line up. You'll see a long back behind the brake line right up to that pop clip there. And using a pop clip removal tool, go alee and get that removed out of this metal bracket. Continuing to follow it upward, you'll meet it fastened to the wheel well liner. Go alee and pop that out. And, again, you can use your trim tool if you need.And once that's popped out, it may be hard to see, only there is a black connector there, get ahead and printing downwards and disconnect this line. Then once this line is disconnected, follow it back down and pop it out of both of these plastic brackets. Make sure you're too disconnecting it from the air line. And so moving to the dorsum of the knuckle, y'all'll encounter that air line'south vacuum line hither. Just pull up to remove this. Next upward, nosotros're moving to the upper ball articulation here. I have a 21-millimeter socket and a swivel extension. Go ahead and get this removed. I'thousand going to thread this back on just slightly and then that we can have this in identify when we release our upper brawl joint. Now, we have that nut on to protect the threads, and in order to release this upper ball joint, you're going to hit the peak of the knuckle right on the side with your hammer. Now, once that ball joint is released, grab a pry bar, and we're going to pry down on that upper control arm and then that we can remove the nut and release the upper control arm from the knuckle.Now, what we're going to do is pull suction on the back of the knuckle where that vacuum line went to. Grab your vacuum pump and place the line over the larger port. Now, you tin pull vacuum. You want to pull between xv and 20 pounds. And this will allow the four-wheel drive to disengage then we can remove the beam. At present, to remove the knuckle, yous do demand to remove the nut off the axle, and to get to that, yous need to remove this dust boot. I'chiliad going behind it with a flathead screwdriver. Now, if this does not piece of work, yous can also utilize a hammer, but you lot should be able to pry it off. And so once the dust encompass is removed, grab a 13-millimeter socket and remove this nut. Brand sure that your vacuum is still pulled as nosotros will now starting time to remove the beam. Now, to remove the lower ball joint, we're going to remove this nut with a 24-millimeter socket.We're going to thread the nut back on to hold information technology in identify, and proceed in listen this is the last affair holding the knuckle on the truck, and so be very careful. And, now, we're going to release the lower brawl joint in the same method we released the upper. Now, once more, this nut is in identify to both take hold of this knuckle and too protect the threads. So, grab your mallet and tap the very back of the knuckle. And, now, with the ball articulation released, remove the nut on the lesser and remove the knuckle off of your truck. At present, nosotros're underneath our control arm hither. You can remove the entire cease link itself, or we can simply remove the nut that'south holding it to the lower control arm so that nosotros can go our strut out. With an 18-millimeter socket, go ahead and get this removed. Now, nosotros can remove the large through bolt through the bottom of our strut assembly. With a thirty-millimeter socket, we're on the nut side, and we have a 27-millimeter wrench on the bolt side, go ahead and get this removed.Then if the commodities does not want to remove past hand, y'all tin slide a pry bar but right in the lesser and sort of wiggle information technology until you find the sweetness spot and remove it. Now, with a 15-millimeter ratcheting wrench or socket, nosotros're going to remove the nuts on the top of the strut assembly. I'thousand going to go out this nut threaded on a flake just to hold it in place while I remove the residuum of them. And and then you may need a ratchet and socket for the dorsum one merely to exist able to clear the top of the strut. And so you can remove that terminal nut. And then one time all the bolts are removed, you tin can remove the strut associates. I'thou going to printing down on the lower command arm, slide it out and down, and remove it off the truck. At present that we have the strut off of the truck, we tin install the spacer. Now, this only goes on one fashion, so make certain information technology'due south lined up properly with the studs. And so you lot tin install the included hardware over your factory studs.And then with a xv-millimeter socket, tighten it down. Now, we tin get the strut assembly reinstalled. Line up the studs on your new spacer with the acme of the strut tower. And once it's lined upwardly, we're going to thread one of the included nuts on in that location to hold it in place while we get the bottom installed. And now to line upwards the lesser of the strut assembly, nosotros're going to pry down with a pry bar and line up the bottom of the strut. If y'all need to, you can use a rubber mallet to tap information technology in place. Then in one case you have that lined up, go ahead and slide in your bolt. And then install the nut on the other side. And so with your 30-millimeter socket and 27-millimeter wrench, become ahead and tighten this downwards. Now, you can install the other two nuts on top of the studs on the top of the strut assembly.And with your 14-millimeter socket or a ratcheting wrench, tighten it down. And, again, we're going to use a socket for the back i simply because we need a lilliputian bit more meridian to articulate the studs upward front. And so, with our 14-millimeter socket, tighten this one downward as well.Now, earlier we tin get the knuckle re-installed, I wanted to bear witness you lot a little fleck well-nigh why we removed this. Now, every bit you can see on the center there, there'south a ring with teeth on information technology that go over your axle. This is what engages your four-wheel drive. So, when nosotros pull vacuum, you can kind of see it moving a little scrap. Nosotros get to our just under 20 PSI and then go along an center on that band equally I release the vacuum. And if we don't pull vacuum on this tab, you can risk damaging that four-wheel bulldoze, so it's a petty bit easier and safer to merely remove this with vacuum equally a whole. And now with vacuum withal pulled, we're going to line upwardly the knuckle over the lower brawl joint as well as the axle simultaneously. And once yous have a few threads on the lower ball joint, get ahead and thread that nut on.Now, one time your lower ball joint nut is in place, go ahead and push button back and so the beam is all the way through. You lot should meet a bit of a shoulder backside the threads to know that it'southward fully seated then thread that factory nut on. So once you have that in place, catch a 13-millimeter socket and tighten it down. Now, we have the truck closer to the ground, we have a flooring jack underneath it, and we accept a bungee cord just supporting the top of the knuckle, what we're going to do is just become alee and raise that lower control arm with the jack then that we tin can compress the strut associates, bring the lower control arm upwardly, and help line upward our upper command arm a little chip easier. Now, nosotros remove that bungee cord upward pinnacle, and I'k going to utilise a pry bar to pry down on that upper control arm. Nosotros're going to line that upper ball articulation up in the top of the knuckle and thread on that manufacturing plant nut. Now, take hold of a 21-millimeter socket, and you may want a swivel extension, and so pry downwardly as you tighten this nut. And brand sure you tighten down that 24-millimeter nut for your lower ball joint as well. And so once your knuckle is fully fastened, go ahead and pull the vacuum and re-install the mill vacuum line.At present, you tin can re-install this grit encompass for the axle. Now, you tin can press it back into place, or you can lightly tap it back in with a rubber mallet. Now, we can re-install the brake rotor. Line it upward over top of your wheel studs. And I recommend throwing a lug nut just to hold it in identify for safety until the caliper is on. And, at present, we tin grab our caliper off the hanger and line information technology upwards over peak of the rotor. You can become ahead and slide it into place. And once the caliper is in place, you can install the hardware. Then with your 18-millimeter socket, go ahead and tighten it down.And, at present, nosotros can plug back in the sensor line. The connector is correct behind your cycle well liner, and if yous reach up, you tin can get it. Make sure you replace the push clip into the bike well liner, as well equally the next pop clip that goes in this metal bracket. Moving downwards the line, make certain you're placing it back in the two plastic brackets on the brake line, too equally the clip on the air line. Now, we're back downward towards the basis so that we can line upwards our outer tie rod. We are jacking upwardly on the lower control arm a chip but so we can get this to clear, and wiggling it back and along should become it to line up through your knuckle.Become alee and re-install that factory nut. And with your 21-millimeter socket, tighten it downward. And, now, we're underneath our control arm and so that we can reconnect the sway bar. I'm threading the factory nut on there. And I did want to point out, if you lot're doing both sides simultaneously, y'all may simply desire to get out both sway bar end links asunder until very last. But in one case yous're ready to re-install it, go ahead and grab that 18-millimeter socket and tighten it downwardly. All right. And now that this side is fully complete, make sure you repeat all of those steps on your commuter side. Once they're both complete, brand sure everything is torqued to spec, and nosotros'll head to the rear to practise our rear install. And, now, we're at the rear of the truck. We accept it a little bit higher in the air, and we have our beam supported with pole jacks. At present, if you're on the footing, y'all can use a floor jack as well, only one time you accept that supported, we can go ahead with our uninstall. At present, with that axle supported, grab an 18-millimeter wrench and a 15-millimeter socket to get the bolt out of the bottom of our shock.Side by side upwardly, grab a 21-millimeter socket and remove all the basics on the U-bolts belongings the leaf leap to the beam. Remove the bracket and set it aside for after, and and then remove the U-bolts off the truck as well. And now that we have the U-bolts removed, nosotros can lower down the axle. Now, considering this is a straight beam truck, it may be easier to practice both sides simultaneously. But once yous're fix, go ahead and lower down the axle but enough where we can get the elevator block out. And one time y'all have enough room, get ahead and remove the mill block. Next up, we can install the new lift block right in the verbal spot equally the mill one. And go ahead and raise the beam back up as you lot line up the lift block. Now, there are two holes in the top and two holes in the bottom, and that's what we're looking to line up here.And once information technology's lined up, go ahead and raise it until the leaf spring meets with the spacer and it meets with the axle. And one time y'all have that lock in place, go ahead and install the new U-bolts. Then y'all tin become ahead and line up the factory subclass over top of your new U-bolts. So install the included hardware. There'southward a washer as well every bit a nut. Go those installed over the ends of each of the U-bolts. Then with your 22-millimeter socket, go alee and tighten these downwards. Now, yous want to effort to tighten these as evenly as possible and in a cross design. And, finally, we tin line upward and re-install the bottom shock. You lot may need to shrink information technology a bit in guild to get it lined up. And with your xviii-millimeter wrench and 15-millimeter socket, tighten it downwardly.All right. At present that this side is complete, brand sure you repeat all of those steps on your driver side. Brand sure everything is torqued to spec, and y'all will need a professional person alignment afterwards. But that is going to do it for the review and install of this leveling kit. And think, for all things F-150, keep it correct here at americantrucks.com.
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Product Information
Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Features
- Break and Cake Lift Kit
- Provides 2.75" in the Front
- Provides one" in the Rear
- Evens Truck Stance
- Increases Ground Clearance
- Maintains Stock Ride Quality
- Accommodates Upward to 33 inch Tires
- Made in the USA
- Completely Bolt On
- Fits 2004-2008 2WD and 4WD F-150s
Description
Priced Affordably. At simply the right price point, y'all will find the Traxda two.75 in. Front / one in. Rear Elevator Kit is the perfect improver to your stock truck. You volition receive a modest two.75 inches in the front end and 1 inch in the rear. You lot can sport that stance that is not but ambitious, but screams that you are ready to caput off the blacktop. This kit is made in the United states of america and will provide you with footing clearance, so that you can accept on rocks and logs as they come at you. I of the nice things nearly the Traxda two.75 in. Front / one in. Rear Elevator Kit is that it tin can arrange upwardly to 33-inch tires and maintain the stock quality ride that you have come to honey and enjoy. This kit does non require you lot to have aftermarket shocks either and you tin can enjoy your stock shocks. Traxda is one of the best brands on the market and they make all of their kits with the commuter in listen. All parts to the Traxda 2.75 in. Front / 1 in. Rear Lift Kit comes light amplification by stimulated emission of radiation cut and perfected for a nice fit. Y'all will find that the quality materials allow your lift to concord up over time and yous do not take to deal with the squeaks and uncomfortable ride of a worn-out arrangement.
Bolt-On, Uncomplicated Application. The Traxda 2.75 in. Front / 1 in. Rear Lift Kit is elementary to install and is a commodities-on awarding, for your convenience. It is recommended that you accept some mechanical experience to install this kit. You can expect installation to have well-nigh two hours total and all hardware and parts come up with this kit.
Application. This Traxda 2.75 in. Front / one in. Rear Lift Kit is designed for use on 2004-2008 Ford F-150s equipped with two-bicycle bulldoze (2WD) or 4-cycle drive (4WD).
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Fitment:
- 2004 Ford F-150
- 2005 Ford F-150
- 2006 Ford F-150
- 2007 Ford F-150
- 2008 Ford F-150
Details
CA Residents: 
WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - world wide web.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Installation & What's in the Box
Installation Info
Installation Time
(approx) two Hours
Difficulty Level:
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
What'south in the Box
- (2) Strut Caps
- (2) Rear Lift Blocks
- (4) U-Bolts
- Hardware
Reviews of similar Suspension products have an average rating of 4.3 out of 5
Questions & Answers
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- iv.6L V8 - 04, 05, 06, 07, 08
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